Very little beta going into this canyon. We spoke to Rick Green who could tell us about the dark section (headlamp required), long silo section and that it was ‘spicy.’ I had a write up that is now lost so I no longer have exact times but we hiked down to the exit point and set our rope to ascend out. Peter was using the day to scout a few things and hang out on the rim. Plan on about 1.5 hours to hike, find and set up the exit, add another 30–45 min to retrace and find the entrance to Bishop.

Angus and I hiked back to the head of Bishop with our Lep packs, geared up in standard X fashion and headed in. The initial upper section is quite tame and hardly worth mentioning. I would lean towards an R with fairly low stemming. Middle section gets more difficult with increasing exposure (R+/X–). I remember an open section with a large boulder and that from there the canyon quickly progressed.

High stemming, awkward climbs and everything else you would expect. There are three large drainages that enter from the LDC. As each of these enter you notice the canyon cutting deeper and features getting more bizarre as you go along. The difficulty also increases as you progress. I don’t remember any of these showing much if any promise of an exit unless someone else descended a drainage and set a rope.

Exposed stemming will lead you to an obvious point where the crack goes over a ledge and the bottom drops out leaving you in an elevator–style shaft 40+ feet to the ground. I take the packs while Angus anchors in to provide a hand line while I investigate.

“Better than it looks,” I shout back up to Angus.

A short walk presents you with a rockfall with a small hole going into darkness. It looks like a cave. Above is a very difficult looking climb that we didn’t even attempt. I wouldn’t rule out a potential alternate route higher. It would be one of the most heady climbs we have seen thus far by looks alone and unexplored territory in the canyon. Headlamps go on, into the dark we venture.

The pinching and convoluted walls above prevent any light from entering. Walking/crawling at first but the canyon floor cuts away and now stemming in an otherwise pitch black environment. We both agreed only Sleepy Hollow has a dark section that compares. That itself is a distant second to the seriousness and amazement both felt in here. There is a turn or two that allows a very slight bluish hue of light into the canyon but not enough to navigate. There is difficult micro route finding in here through a black maze that pinches above and below at various spots. Bombays at times and a few unwelcome silos with unknown heights to cross. A few times were are shut down, have to retreat and find a higher route. I remember climbing into a passage with chest deep water that went for about 30 feet. The ceiling slowly comes to meet the water line confirming it’s a dead end. At some points we are barely squeezing through 25–50 ft sections. More of these go our way than not preventing some otherwise undesired retracing and climbs.

Light starts coming back into the canyon and a ground touch is made. A long upclimb ensues that is exposed with moderate moves. Very difficult to say given the illusions of distance but I think 60 ft is more on the conservative side. There is lateral movement during this upclimb but looking back from the top, the starting point cannot be seen due to darkness. As you get to what you think is the top, a silo to the ground presents itself. Going another five feet up makes this crossing less sketchy. Either way I remember this transition to be very uncomfortable with potential falls on each side of you. To exit the silo you must transition by wedging yourself into a constricting of the walls to find safety from the void below. Beyond this constriction is another few silos with difficult moves. This was the hardest section up to this point in the canyon but would be trumped by the coming silos.

The next remarkable section is Silo Row. Convoluted walls, silos to the ground, sickening exposure and as Rick Green said, ‘spicy.’ We found ourselves climbing down into silos to seek better features for crossing, climbing back out only to have another silo waiting. They are stacked on each other and relentless. Some silos must simply be crossed with wide uncomfortable stances. Every man for himself basically, mostly un–protectable. These are no doubt the highest and most serious silos we have ever encountered. They are a level up from any other canyon. Even PINTAC or Long Branch might have a comparable problem or two but never stacked so closely and consecutively. This area is short but takes a considerable amount of time.

In this section, while attempting to get out of a silo and into the safety of the walls, I made a miscalculation that left me in a precarious situation. What appeared to be a simple transition into a body wedge I found myself a foot lower than expected, six inches too wide for a solid wedge. I was left hugging a bulge with my back pressed against a wall that was sloping downwards and away from me—a position I could have held for perhaps 10 minutes max. A foot placement I was counting on crumbled when pressed. It was also sloping more than it had originally appeared, now a slick and featureless wall. Below me is a now very apparent bombay. A dynamic move had to be made. I’m 95% sure I can make this move, I look down and see an uncatchable fall that would only be slowed by bouncing off the curves of the walls that trailed 50+ ft below. I decide that 1/20 carries an unacceptable risk and call to Angus a few feet ahead to come back and provide some protection. He braced himself in a back–to–feet stem and provided a hand line which I used to improve my situation. This is why we both carry short coiled ropes in these canyons. Had I been the only one with a coiled rope, Angus would have been unable to help me.

I find ‘safety’ on a tiny ledge perched high above. I look down at the hole I just escaped and became quite shook up. Peering into it and the open space below I start to ponder what exactly the hell we are doing in here. The idea of retreating is more illogical than pressing forward. I know that if there was an escape at that moment I would have taken it without hesitation. It’s a dangerous thing for one to consider other options when you really have none. Angus and I make small talk, dinner plans of the evening and such. Smothered burrito with fries at Cowboy Blues sounds like our best bet, shower at the Outfitters afterwords. I focus on my breathing to prevent any more adrenaline from being released. As the catecholamines taper I move from the perch to cross the next silo and into a safer position in the next pinch. Wash, rinse and repeat.

The canyon eases slightly and begins to tease of the telltale signs that it is losing its ability to maintain its complexity. Subtle features start becoming apparent, things you notice in a X canyon after looking for them enough. Another turn and another silo section similar to the previous but not quite as bad ... still very bad and only dwarfed by the previous run. My gopro battery has been dead for a while, I know I should change it to catch these sections but it isn’t a priority to me at this moment.

I start to notice a large wall visible DC right. I’m convinced this must be near our exit given the sharp turns and big walls we noticed while setting our ropes. We let out a few shouts to see if Peter can hear us. He yells back down and we know the end is near. One last turn, touch the ground, manage the boulder field and see our rope. After a rest we ascend the rope as we escape Bishop’s last attempts to keep us locked inside. Peter greets us with smiles and jubilation. As for the rest of the day, we respected the plan made on that tiny little ledge far above the ground exactly as it was discussed. The burrito was excellent.

We had scouted the canyon days prior and also the exit of the middle XX section to verify the crawl out was in play as advised. A rope was used to ensure an escape back out. It is possible under the right conditions that this could be filled with sand or underwater and would require a very undesirable high route that looked to deliver climbs harder than anything else seen in the canyon.

The first upper section starts with moderate stemming that can be moved through quickly in a careful star bridge. It feels serious at first as we settle into our routine of regular moves with high exposure. The walls are sharp without choss, our kind of canyon so far. Exposed moves but business as usual. I was saving my GoPro battery for the middle section so didn’t take any video in here. 40 minutes and we are out to a walk and able to wave to my parents who are monitoring our progress from the rim.

Tom Collins joined up with us a few days prior to scout S.O.S. and descend BFS. He moved well through BFS and made last–minute work trades and another trip to join us. Tom has the same hunger and intrigue of the X canyons that Angus and I share. He’s no doubt crazy, but not stupid ... a good fit with us.

We are going light through this canyon as usual. One Lep pack, a potshot and a #6 cam. Short coiled ropes for good measure and all the usual body armor. Mostly we are carrying snacks and some water to get us through. Looking back the #6 was unnecessary but had been suggested as a possible aid.

At the end of the first section a GPS check confirms there is only about 0.38 miles of total canyon left for the middle and lower section.

There is a walking section between upper/middle and about 15 minutes of very low and easy stemming. After turning a corner we see two nearly perfect vertical walls that clearly marks the gate to the XX. This is the same corridor pictured in the magazine article ‘Highball Squeeze.’ Angus tests the low route which goes and we follow. A sharp right corner presents a short upclimb into a crack that soon opens into a grand room. Wide convoluted walls with a dark lower section. The downclimb looks standard and I confirm on belay it won’t be an issue for the group.

We stay low with very enjoyable canyon features and chambers that had us all letting out oohs and aaahs. Darkness In some areas make it slightly challenging to see features. We continue along solving problems as we go. We were able to stay low longer than I anticipated. There is a higher route but it looked like a lot of work.

Moving fast and probably enjoying ourselves too much we make the mistake of all verbalizing it wasn’t as bad as expected. The canyon responds as the seriousness increases and now quickly agree we are in XX features. Climbs up narrow exposed cracks with silos below. Awkward high stemming with sketchy transitions in and out of uncomfortable areas to rest in. I find a rest with 30+ feet of exposure in a silo as I wait my turn on the next climb. Not ideal but it allows the muscles in need a chance to recover as I look down. There are a lot of short climbs and a few longer ones than I remember as I review my video footage.

Tom is ahead and finds the area we all agree must have been explained as the ejector seat problem by the first group. He climbs the crack, retreates at the silos problem at the top and finds a mid route through tight section. Makes the move over the silo at the mid level. Angus is positioned up high while I’m still mid level. I attempt multiple times to make it through the middle section to follow Tom’s route. Unfortunately not only do I not fit but for the third time I’m stuck as my progress in all directions stop. I take a few minutes in this precarious position with shallow breathes restricted by the walls to regain composure. I’m finally able to retreat.

A chute going into the dark is noticed as Angus and I investigate. It goes 30 feet or so to the ground in a dark convoluted corner. The upclimb awaits a few feet away as the canyon pinches and forces us back to the level of Tom. A handline is used to protect an otherwise difficult up route that neither of us feel like soloing at the moment. The desired path pinches too tight forcing you to take the undesired one through an exposed open space move 20 ft into this climb. Progress grinds to a halt as we spent about 45 minutes making it through a 20 ft section of canyon. I suppose this part of canyon offers three routes. A high and exposed (50 ft), a middle skinny and still very exposed (40 ft), or a low with an exposed climb. Pick your poison.

From here we are going up again and moving at a high level to keep above the pinching while skirting silos and voids. This whole section is no doubt the crux of the canyon but also very near the end. Eventually the pinching below begins to open and Angus lets out a shout as he sees an arrow drawn in the sand five days before during the scout. We know its times to go down. A very exposed downclimb within a silo allows a drop of 30+ feet to the ground below. A crawl through two ground sections spits us out of the middle. Some celebration ensues with some whoops from the rim as my parents are positioned to see our exit into the walking section. Total time in this section was 2:30.

A short break to drink the rest of our water and snacks and we continue down to the final section. The lower is no doubt X and contains harder moves with high exposure than the upper section. Not harder than anything we have done but fatigue is now being felt from the XX. This section felt longer than the time it took which was about 25 min. The lower contained a very pretty walking section with a lot of green moss for this time of year. It teases the end but sends us back up for one last high run. Walls become very slick with mud/moss mixture before we are finally free from the grasps of the lower and walking out a sandy wash. Across from the mouth of the canyon presents an easy and obvious exit onto the rim and back to our vehicle.

Our X canyon high stemming quest began a few years ago with Big Tony. It isn’t over yet as we haven’t done all X canyons but have been through all well known in the Escalante area. It was a progression that is necessary for this style of canyons as they all have unique problems and challenges. I remember many restless nights before doing Tony over the unknown. I slept quite well before S.O.S. as the mindset changes over time. Tony was a stressful event as I hardly remember the canyon and only the anxiety felt going through. S.O.S. was still worrisome but I found myself able to enjoy this canyon and its beauty. It is a very unique and intriguing canyon with features that I thoroughly enjoyed.

The main question for the few who want to see all these XX canyons is which is harder? The answer over time has become more unclear and I’m forced now to say ... it depends. Each canyon with its own set of problems requires a different skill set to overcome obstacles. The skills of the individual and the team going through will determine this difficulty level perceived. Your mental state and attitude will carry an nearly equivalent weight as your physical fitness. Are you doing the canyons when you are fresh or at the end of the trip? These all factor into the experience.

There are also ‘good’ and ‘bad’ days. Some days you are dialed in, others more hesitant or doubting. The other big factor is your plan and the situation you create for each canyon. For S.O.S. we scouted the canyon, took the day off before to rest from other canyons. Laid out gear, double checked and discussed the necessity of all items, nice dinner and went to bed early.

How much you carry through the canyon will influence the experience as well. While its nice to have all the emergency gear and such, this all adds up. In general we have enough to survive a night in the canyon, not to be comfortable. The alpinist idea of light and fast fits our model, yours may be different.

If I were to rank the XX from hardest to easiest my list would be:

            Bishop, S.O.S., Long Branch, PINTAC.

Angus feels different as his order is:

            Bishop/S.O.S.(tie), PINTAC, Long Branch

Bishop with its silos presents more challenges for shorter people as I am 5′7′′ while Angus is 6′2′′. Upclimbs in S.O.S. and PINTAC slightly favor someone of shorter stature in my opinion. PINTAC is the endurance canyon. It also has many off–width style problems that favor those who have experience in this subset of climbing.

Another important factor is weather and time of year. I don’t think these are summer canyons and are better done in the shoulder seasons. They are physical and require massive amounts of exertion for up to several hours at a time. Cooler temps allow for less overheating and a decreased need for water that must be carried. We prefer temps in the 60s (°F).

Between the other canyoneers we met in town there was a different buzz (regarding X/XX canyons) than we have ever seen before. Many people asking questions about these harder canyons as awareness of their existence and mystique increases. I can guarantee they will see more traffic in the very near future. I wish for everyone a safe year and always have a plan and backup.


Aaron Smith


Tales of Bishop & S.O.S.:
  Bishop and the X–Men • Ram
  The Highball Squeeze (S.O.S.) • Steve Brezovec
  Bishop & S.O.S. • Aaron Smith
  Bishop Canyon • Josh Allen    ( SHORT FILM )

© 2017 Aaron Smith